Standing out from the array of restaurants, cafes and bars lining West Street is no mean feat, but Grappa manages it with ease. The substantial two-storey building, adorned with gleaming lights, an outdoor terrace and a distinctive branded archway, instantly captures attention on one of Sheffield’s liveliest stretches.
Opening back in December 2023, the venue promises an authentic Italian experience throughout the day, offering coffee, breakfast and brunch in the morning, followed by cocktails, DJs and live jazz at the downstairs bar space in the evening. Upstairs, you’ll find the jewel in its crown: a modern 80-seater restaurant featuring an open kitchen, accessible via a stylish mirrored staircase.
We were there to try their brand-new menu, a small plates “cicchetti” offering priced at a very reasonable three dishes for £18. After being welcomed warmly downstairs, we were shown up to our window seats overlooking the bustle of West Street below. It wasn’t long before we were furnished with olives, freshly baked bread and dipping oils while we browsed the menu.
We were greeted warmly and provided with warm bread and olives while we perused the new menu.
Drinks-wise, the eye is naturally drawn to its wide selection of grappa – the largest collection you’ll find in Sheffield or anywhere else up north for that matter. Grappa is a grape-based Italian spirit traditionally distilled from the leftovers of skin, seeds and stems (also known as pomace) after the winemaking process. However, I settled for a well-balanced chianti and my partner, on driving duties, opted for a refreshing elderflower tonic.
The cicchetti menu itself is divided into three sections – meat, fish and vegetarian – so we thought it sensible to try two from each. In terms of the portion size, think smaller than mains but slightly bigger than your average starter, meaning six between two diners is a substantial feed.
First up, the salsiccia su letto di lenticchie – a glazed Tuscan sausage served on a bed of lentils infused with truffle oil. Simple and hearty, as all the best Italian food is, the mixture of savoury and earthy flavours created a deep umami taste that we couldn’t get enough of.
Tuscan sausage served with braised lentils and sun-dried tomatoes.
The second meat dish was maiale – crispy pork belly served with braised borlotti beans topped with salsa verde. It was another winning blend of textures and tastes: the crispy pork belly provided a satisfying crunch and plenty of rich flavour, the braised borlotti beans added a creamy base and the salsa verde brought a zesty burst of freshness to the party.
Salty, meaty and hearty – the ‘maiale‘ pork dish was a winner.
The next two dishes led us into pescetarian territory. The fritto misto featured a deep-fried assortment of seafood, including the usual suspects of calamari and prawns, along with bite-sized chunks of Mediterranean favourite red mullet. Crispy and light, it was served with the customary sides of tartar sauce and a lemon wedge. We continued to pick at this plate as we moved on to the second arrival.
Fritto misto: a battered mini-feast for seafood lovers.
This was a real treat: polipetti affogati, or ‘drowned octopus’, is a traditional Neapolitan dish featuring braised octopus cooked in a rich, tomato-based sauce. In true rustic Italian style, presentation is not necessarily the priority, and those averse to cephalopod-based cuisine might baulk at the sight of tentacles peeking out from beneath the thick cover of sauce. The taste, however, was superb – tender, succulent octopus absorbing the flavours of the white wine-infused sauce, enhanced by fresh herbal notes and a slight kick of heat. A natural benefit of small plate menus, especially when they are reasonably priced, is that you’re more inclined to take a risk and try something new. That was the case here, and I’m very glad I took the plunge.
This stewed octopus dish is particularly popular in the Naples region.
The final two plates we sampled from the cicchetti menu were vegetarian dishes: ricotta gnudi and a bruschetta trio. The former consisted of delicate dumplings made primarily from ricotta cheese, basil and a bit of flour. They had a texture similar to gnocchi but were lighter and fluffier. Topped with slices of parmesan and covered in sage butter, it was a nicely balanced dish with aromatic flavours and a slightly nutty finish.
The ricotta gnudi – similar to gnocchi but slightly softer and paired with crunchy rainbow chard, garlicky sautéed greens and shavings of parmesan.
For the bruschetta trio, three toasted slices of focaccia arrived, one topped with ricotta friarielli, the second with olive tapenade and the third with whipped goat’s cheese and balsamic onions. Out of the three toppings, the ricotta friarielli reigned supreme – a creamy, indulgent finish to the meal.
A trio of bruschetta options formed our final choice from the cicchetti menu.
We were then informed that we couldn’t leave without trying the fresh panna cotta, a traditional Italian dessert that perfectly embodies simplicity and sophistication – much like the wider menu and the Grappa concept as a whole. It was, of course, delicious. With a final toast of limoncello and a “Salute!” to our attentive waiter, we made our way back onto West Street, feeling hugely satisfied with an evening centred on excellent value Italian comfort food and already looking forward to our next visit.
The panna cotta with homemade biscotti rounded off an enjoyable night of Italian-inspired comfort food.
Try Grappa’s new cicchetti menu for yourself, served 12-3pm on Wednesday-Friday. To book a table, head www.grappasheffield.com, message on Instagram @grappasheffield or call 0114 6981950.
