The Wonky Labrador – your friendly, laid-back local on Oakbrook Road – has kicked off the new year with a splash of paint and a mission to make non-alcoholic beer feel like a proper choice, not an afterthought.
The mural’s the first thing punters clock when they walk in: bright, bold and rooted in the Peaks, it’s a playful nod to Sheffield’s outdoorsy soul. Running parallel to the bar and winding upstairs to a cosy seating area, there’s even a miniature version of Mac McGrath – the pub’s owner – walking his labrador pup, Scout.
“We were looking for a theme we could run through the building – something that made even more inviting and comfortable,” Mac tells Exposed. “The artist, The Moody Violet [@themoodyvioletdesign], absolutely nailed it. It’s got that connection to nature, green space, taking the dog for a walk and ending up at the pub – that whole Sheffield feel.”
The pub already draws a steady crowd of local dog walkers, beer lovers and people seeking a more toned-down refuge from the student-heavy buzz further down the hill. But what’s setting The Wonky apart lately is what isn’t in some of its pints.
Since opening, Mac’s been keen to build a non-alcoholic and low-ABV selection that goes way beyond the token Heineken 0.0. Now, three years in, it’s become one of the best spots in Sheffield for dry-ish drinking – and it’s not just a January thing.
“It’s definitely grown,” Mac says. “Drinking habits are changing. It’s not about drinking high percentage beers as quickly as you can. Pubs are social spaces for everyone to enjoy a chat and a drink, regardless of ABV. You can still have the social side of things, but there are more options to pace yourself. It just elongates your visit and makes places like this feel even more community led.”
That shift in attitude was clear at their recent alcohol-free Meet the Brewer night with Bristol-based brewery Wiper & True. “Usually those events are £30 a head – this one was half that, and we sold out in a couple of days. The drinks were unreal and still full of flavour. It’s amazing what they can do now.”
You’ll regularly find beers at The Lab from Below Brew Co, who are entirely alcohol-free and based in Bath, alongside non or low-alcohol options from northern favourites like Track Brewing (Manchester), Abbeydale (Sheffield) and Tartarus (Leeds). Queer Brewing, a non-profit brewery with a focus on inclusion, also features heavily on the shelves.
And this isn’t just about bottled and canned beer either – The Wonky has these options on draught, which is still relatively rare territory even in craftier circles. Whereas in the fridges, the pub’s selection spans everything from German wheat beers like Rothaus Hefeweizen Alkoholfrei to elderflower cider from Thistly Cross, and you’ll often find member of staff Ruth behind the bar knocking up zero-proof cocktails on the fly. “They put together our cocktail list, and when we’re working on something new, it’s always: can this be done as a mocktail too?”
Favourites include a spicy margarita made with Blue Agave non-alc tequila and a no-booze version of a Dark & Stormy. “Sometimes it’s just about knowing what you’ve got on the shelves and how it all works together. The best bit is when someone takes a sip and you just see their eyes light up. You know you’ve nailed it.”
Their community-first ethos also means there’s plenty going on outside the beer itself. There’s a new movie night series (free popcorn included) and a monthly games night covering everything from board games to Mario Kart (10% off the first drink).
They’re also planning another food pop-up with Nick from Pipers Artisan Sausages. “Our pop-ups with them are always great thanks to his unreal dishes, and we can’t wait to have them back. We’ve got something in the works.”
And for those still craving something heftier, don’t worry – The Wonky hasn’t shut the door on the big, bombastic beers. “We had a 9.4% dessert stout on over Christmas,” Mac grins. “It’s all about choice and ensuring everyone’s welcomed in and catered for. That’s the point of places like this.”
