Situated on the bottom floor of recycled shipping container complex Krynkl, Nordic-inspired restaurant Jöro opened in late December with a hefty weight of expectation on its shoulders. Head Chef and co-owner Luke French had built up a strong reputation through his work with The Milestone Group, and the levels of anticipation amongst foodies in the city were only amplified further when a series of delays repeatedly pushed back the opening date.
A few weeks after the grand opening, the Exposed team were invited to spend the afternoon at the chef’s table to try one of their ever-changing taster menus. Naturally, we jumped at the opportunity and stepped into the stylish, minimalist surrounds hugely excited for the avalanche of flavours which awaited us.
While waiting for the first of our courses, Luke and sous-chef Blake explained a bit more about the Jöro ethos. Pronounced ‘Yoro’, the name is a literal translation for ‘Earth’ in old Norse, and this all ties into the restaurant’s focus of bringing a nature-inspired menu into an urban setting. Dishes are created using a hyper-seasonal approach, which means picking ingredients at their prime that very day. And nothing – literally nothing – is left to waste. After being smoked, filleted mackerel carcasses are dried to be used for dashi broth and oil – just one example of the ‘waste not, want not’ attitude they promote.
Amongst the stunning selection of food on offer, stand-outs included a barbecued and pickled carrot dish, served with burnt cream, tarragon oil, white chocolate and yoghurt crumb – which might sound relatively simple, but the brilliantly contrasting sweet and smoky tastes were superb. Peas cooked in onion oil with oak smoked ham & garlic cream is becoming something of a Jöro signature – news that came as no surprise after tasting the homely, warming dish and its perfect marriage of traditional flavours. We later experienced the benefits of hyper-seasonal cuisine first-hand when trying the incredibly fresh Cornish mackerel. It was mackerel done three ways: poached, fried and smoked, then served in a delicious broth with puffed black rice and pickled Jerusalem artichokes. The desert menu was naturally just as impressive, and the sorrel ice cream served with apples, dill and lemon verbena provided a tart, creamy finish to a magnificent variety of food.
Upon leaving the Krynkyl building still savouring the range of flavours we’d just experienced, the decision was unanimous that we’d just visited the most exciting, innovative restaurant in the city today. The Jöro philosophy of fresh, flavoursome dishes bringing diners at one with nature and its changing micro-seasons is one that all food lovers should experience. So what are you waiting for?
www.jororestaurant.co.uk
294 Shalesmoor, S3 8US
