From Belfast’s lively streets to the wild Atlantic coastline, this autumn road trip took us through some of the most characterful places in Northern Ireland and the north-west of Ireland – with beautiful scenery, fascinating history and plenty of good food along the way.
There is something special about exploring Ireland by car. The freedom to take the scenic route, stop in a seaside town for a wander or spend a little longer somewhere that catches your eye makes a road trip one of the best ways to experience the island.
Our journey took us from Belfast along the Causeway Coast, through the seaside towns of Portrush and Portstewart, onwards to the historic city of Derry and finally into County Donegal. It was a trip filled with contrasting landscapes, welcoming places and the sort of memorable experiences that make you start planning your next visit before you have even returned home.
And, of course, food played an important part. We have included a few restaurant recommendations along the route.
Across the Irish Sea with Stena Line
Our journey began at Cairnryan, boarding Stena Line’s Superfast service to Belfast.
The crossing from Cairnryan to Belfast marked the start of our Irish adventure. As the ferry made its way across the Irish Sea, there was time to relax, enjoy the views and leave the everyday routine behind. Travelling with our own car also meant we could explore at our own pace, taking in the coast and countryside along the way.
We had booked the Stena Plus Lounge for the outward crossing, which added a welcome touch of comfort to the journey. The lounge offers comfortable seating and lovely views across the water, along with complimentary snacks, coffee, soft drinks and wine. There is also an excellent paid-for menu with waiter service for anyone looking for something more substantial.
It was a relaxing way to begin the holiday, giving us time to sit back, enjoy the crossing and ease ourselves into holiday mode before arriving in Belfast, ready to hit the road.
Plan your crossing: Stena Line – Cairnryan to Belfast
Belfast: A City with Plenty to Discover
Our first stop was Belfast, a city with a fascinating mix of history, culture and contemporary energy. It has reinvented itself considerably over the years, yet retains a strong sense of identity and character.
There is plenty to explore, from the historic streets and impressive architecture to the waterfront and the city’s celebrated Titanic Quarter. Belfast is also a great place to get a feel for Northern Ireland’s story, with its past never far from the surface.
The city has developed a particularly strong food scene, with everything from traditional pubs and independent cafés to ambitious restaurants. One address worth considering for a special meal is OX, a contemporary restaurant known for its thoughtful cooking and focus on excellent ingredients.
Where to eat: OX
OX is a good choice for anyone looking for a more refined dining experience in Belfast. Its cooking puts seasonal produce centre stage, with carefully balanced combinations and an emphasis on quality ingredients.
Website: www.oxbelfast.com
A sample meal for two
A tempting way to start would be with scallops served with sweetcorn, bisque and alliums, alongside some sourdough and Glenilen butter. For mains, one diner could choose the wild sea bass with courgette, Paimpol beans and girolles, while the other tries the Thornhill duck with plum, Jerusalem artichoke and coffee.
To finish, the blackberry and white chocolate parfait sounds particularly appealing, while the caramelised apple dessert offers a more autumnal alternative. It is the sort of menu that makes a meal feel like an occasion.
Portrush: A Classic Seaside Escape
Leaving Belfast behind, we headed towards the north coast and the seaside town of Portrush.
Portrush has all the ingredients of a traditional seaside resort, with its harbour, promenade, sandy beaches and welcoming atmosphere. It is a lovely place to spend time, whether that means taking a walk along the shore, watching the waves roll in or simply finding somewhere to sit and enjoy the coastal views.
The town is also ideally placed for exploring the wider Causeway Coast, one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline in this part of Ireland. The combination of dramatic scenery, pretty towns and long sandy beaches makes this area a real highlight of any road trip.
For somewhere to eat, Shanty is an interesting option. Set in the old lifeboat shelter, it has a distinctive location and a menu that brings together seafood, locally sourced ingredients and relaxed coastal dining.
Where to eat: Shanty
Shanty makes the most of its seaside setting, with a menu that suits a leisurely lunch or evening meal. Its mix of seafood, grilled dishes and sharing plates makes it an appealing stop after a day exploring the coast.
Website: www.shantyportrush.com
A sample meal for two
To begin, the Shanty crinkles – served with garlic and herb aioli, chimichurri and romesco – would make a good sharing starter. Fire-grilled sardines with tomato dashi and nduja are another tempting choice.
For mains, the Kilkeel coley with confit heirloom tomatoes, spinach, feta and herb oil would be a lovely seafood option, while the chimichurri chicken with chorizo, spinach, baby potatoes and parmesan offers something heartier.
For dessert, the sticky toffee pudding is a classic way to finish, although the restaurant’s baked Alaska is worth looking out for when available.
Portstewart: Beach Life and Atlantic Views
A short drive along the coast brought us to Portstewart, another attractive seaside town with a relaxed feel and some wonderful coastal scenery.
The real star here is Portstewart Strand, a beautiful stretch of golden sand backed by dunes and open countryside. It is the sort of beach that invites you to slow down, take a walk and enjoy the fresh Atlantic air. Even when the weather is a little unpredictable, the coastline has an appeal all of its own.
Portstewart is also a good place to pause for a meal, and Harry’s Shack is one of the area’s best-known dining spots. Its position right beside the beach makes it particularly appealing, especially if you can secure a table with a view.
Where to eat: Harry’s Shack
Harry’s Shack has a relaxed, unfussy atmosphere, with a menu that makes the most of fresh local fish, seafood and seasonal produce. It is a natural fit for the seaside setting and a lovely place to enjoy a meal after a walk along the strand.
Website: Harry’s Shack
A sample meal for two
A bowl of Mulroy Bay mussels or some crispy squid would be a good way to start, particularly if you are in the mood for seafood. For mains, the classic fish and chips is an obvious seaside choice, while the whole Greencastle megrim offers something a little different for anyone keen to try the local catch.
A dessert such as a chocolate pot or a traditional pudding would round things off nicely. The appeal here is as much about the setting as the food: relaxed dining, fresh sea air and the beach just outside.
Derry: History, Character and Contemporary Dining
Our journey continued to Derry, a city with a remarkable history and a character all of its own.
One of the most striking features is the city walls, which remain remarkably intact and offer a fascinating way to explore Derry on foot. Walking around them gives a real sense of the city’s past, while the views across the rooftops and towards the River Foyle provide a different perspective on the city.
Derry is also a place where history and modern culture sit comfortably alongside one another. Its independent shops, cafés, pubs and cultural attractions give it plenty of personality, making it well worth allowing time to explore rather than simply passing through.
For food lovers, Artis by Phelim O’Hagan is a particularly interesting name. Situated in the Craft Village, the restaurant has built a reputation for contemporary cooking that celebrates ingredients from the surrounding region.
Where to eat: Artis by Phelim O’Hagan
Artis offers a more sophisticated dining experience, with a focus on local suppliers and carefully prepared dishes. The cooking combines traditional ingredients with modern techniques, making it a great choice for a memorable evening in Derry.
Website: Artis by Phelim O’Hagan
A sample meal for two
A menu-inspired meal might begin with a delicate seafood starter before moving on to the wild turbot, served with scallop roe mousse, Ballymakenny Farm potato and Killary Fjord mussels.
For the second main course, the Donegal Dexter stuffed beef striploin, accompanied by beef cheek tart, spiced pastrami and green peppercorn, sounds particularly tempting. A side of crispy potato gratin with Coolatin cheddar and caramelised onion would be a welcome addition.
Artis is also known for taking its desserts seriously, so it would be worth leaving room for something sweet. It is an excellent option for anyone wanting to make dinner part of the experience rather than simply a stop along the way.
Donegal Town: The Wild Atlantic Way
The final destination on our Irish road trip was Donegal Town, a lovely place to finish an exploration of the north-west.
Donegal has a character that feels distinctly different from the larger cities. It is welcoming and relaxed, with a picturesque setting, independent shops and a strong connection to the surrounding countryside and coastline.
The town makes a good base for discovering more of County Donegal, a region renowned for its rugged landscapes, beautiful beaches and spectacular Atlantic views. It is easy to see why the area has become such a favourite with visitors looking for a little more space, fresh air and a slower pace of life.
For a meal in town, Quay West is well worth considering. Positioned opposite Donegal Pier, it has west-facing windows overlooking Donegal Bay, making it an appealing choice for dinner, particularly as the light begins to fade over the water.
Where to eat: Quay West
Quay West puts local produce at the heart of its menus, with seafood sourced directly from boats in Killybegs and beef from local producers. Its relaxed atmosphere and waterside setting make it a fitting place to enjoy a final meal in Donegal.
Website: www.quaywestdonegal.ie
A sample meal for two
A good way to begin would be with the restaurant’s prawn gratin or signature smokies, giving the meal a distinctly local seafood flavour.
For mains, smoked haddock would be a tempting choice for one diner, while a featherblade of beef offers something more substantial for the other. With the emphasis on seasonal ingredients and local suppliers, the menu is likely to offer plenty of choice depending on the time of year.
To finish, a sticky toffee pudding would be a comforting classic. Add a glass of wine and a table overlooking Donegal Bay and you have all the ingredients for a lovely final evening in Ireland.
The Journey Home: An Overnight Stay in Stranraer
After a memorable few days exploring Ireland, it was time to make our way back to Belfast for the return Stena Line sailing to Cairnryan.
For the return crossing, we booked the Stena Plus Lounge again and were pleased to find it just as good as the lounge on the outward journey. It provided the same welcome opportunity to relax in comfortable surroundings, enjoy refreshments and take a breather after several days of travelling. It was a lovely way to make the journey home feel just as enjoyable as the trip over.
Rather than driving all the way back to Sheffield in one go, we decided to make one final overnight stop in Scotland, choosing the North West Castle Hotel in Stranraer.
The hotel was conveniently located for the ferry terminal and proved to be a very welcome stop after the crossing. It has a traditional feel, with comfortable surroundings and a relaxed atmosphere that made it easy to settle in for the evening.
We particularly enjoyed the evening meal, excellent whisky selection and breakfast the following morning. For anyone considering a similar stop, the hotel’s restaurant offers a traditional dining room and a menu featuring modern British cuisine with local and Scottish produce.
Where to eat: North West Castle Hotel
Hotel website: North West Castle Hotel
Restaurant information: North West Castle dining
A sample meal for two
A menu-inspired dinner could begin with a prawn cocktail and creamy garlic mushrooms served with garlic bread. For mains, the grilled fillet of sea bass with fennel and lemon risotto would be a lovely choice, while the roast rump of lamb with sautéed garlic potatoes, vegetables and rich jus offers a hearty alternative.
For dessert, the warm sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and ice cream sounds hard to resist, while the lemon posset with berry compôte would provide a lighter finish.
Breakfast the following morning was equally enjoyable and set us up nicely for the journey ahead. After a comfortable overnight stop, we were ready to get back on the road and make the drive home to Sheffield.
It was a much more relaxed way to finish the holiday than tackling the entire journey in one go, and gave us the chance to enjoy one last evening away before returning to everyday life.
The Verdict: An Irish Road Trip Worth Taking
This trip was a wonderful reminder of just how much there is to discover in Northern Ireland and the north-west of Ireland. From Belfast’s energy and history to the beaches of Portrush and Portstewart, the character of Derry and the beautiful setting of Donegal Town, every stop offered something different.
Travelling with our own car made the journey straightforward and flexible, while taking the ferry from Cairnryan to Belfast was a comfortable and enjoyable way to begin and end the adventure. The Stena Plus Lounge on both journeys was well worth it and highly recommended for an extra bit of luxury.
There was no shortage of memorable scenery, interesting places to explore and good food to enjoy along the way. The overnight stop in Stranraer was also a welcome addition, turning the journey home into part of the holiday rather than simply the drive at the end.
For anyone thinking about an Ireland road trip, this route offers a lovely balance of city life, coastal scenery, history and hospitality. It is easy to see why the north coast and Donegal continue to draw visitors back, and why we would happily do it all again.
