Food review: Sentinel
Housed in a former carpet warehouse on Shoreham Street, Sentinel has it all under one roof: a fully working brewery, bar, event space and eatery. After making a name for themselves earlier this year following Sheffield Beer Week, it was only last month that the venue officially opened its doors. With their produce travelling a mere 25 yards from hops to tap, you can see the entire brewery from the comfort of the bar or restaurant areas, which serves up a beery inspired menu for those wanting something special to go along with their sup. Friday afternoons for the Exposed team usually focus strictly on the liquid side of Sentinel’s offerings, so it made a welcome change for us to actually line our stomachs for the few hours following the working week.
Though the menu offers plenty in the traditional form of mains, starters and desserts, we’re in sharing spirits and opt to go for a few small plates and platters. First up: some Hendo’s hummus with toasted beer bread. While there is an element of that stereotypical Sheffield compulsion of throwing lashings of Henderson’s Relish over pretty much any morsel of food, this is one of those concoctions which works out surprisingly complementary; the hummus taking on a nice, smoky almost barbecue flavour. The malt breaded Whitby crab cakes with tartare sauce is the first dish to show how subtly the use of beer making ingredients can be incorporated into a dish. Light, crispy and extra flavoursome on the outside due to the malt, these are absolutely delicious, though perhaps not more so than the real winner of the day – the mighty Scotch egg which turns out to be the perfect partner in crime to the nicely hopped IPA which most of the group was drinking. Runny on the inside and crispy on the out, along with a generous amount of herby pork and black pudding mixed with their own Sentinel brown sauce, they’ve really hit the nail on the head here in producing one truly tasty bar snack.
The two platters offer plenty of variety to dip in and out of – the meat one combining Spanish chorizo, San Carlo pancetta, Serrano ham and ‘cock-a-leekie’ terrine with olives, house pickles, IPA chutney and toasted beer bread. The cheese one is equally impressive, offering great chunks of Barncliffe brie, Wooky Hole cave-aged goat’s cheese (the star of the show) and an unusual all-black charcoal cheddar. These are served alongside ‘Ar’ red ale chutney, quince jelly, house-baked oatcakes and rosemary biscuits – certainly not your average cheese board.
Finally, just in case we aren’t satisfied with the pile of food already weighing down the table, we’re presented with one of their speciality pizzas. Ale-braised oxtail, red onion jam, baby leaf spinach and Yorkshire blue cheese toppings prove that this isn’t your bog-standard cheese and tomato pizza, as does the fact that it’s demolished within a few short minutes.
Providing much more than the usual brewery-bar/tap house experience, Sentinel’s food offerings show how to really make the most of the humble bar snack. It certainly beats a packet of peanuts.
178 Shoreham Street, S1 4SQ
Tel: 0114 3999 888 // www.sentinelbrewing.co